REVIEW: ‘Culinary Class Wars’ Is Delectably Binge-Worthy

The latest Korean reality series for Netflix, Culinary Class Wars, showcases what happens when a studio finds a structure that works and sticks to it. Culinary Class Wars has plenty of worthwhile elements, making it a fun and engaging watch. But the first thing people might note is how similar the setting is to fellow Netflix series, Physical 100. From the initial contestants instantly being reduced drastically in the first round to windowless interior staging and little plaques (instead of body casts) that they must hang up when they lose, there’s clearly some carryover from the other successful reality competition series.

Culinary Class Wars can stand apart once we look past what appears to be the same set as Physical 100. The “class war” divides itself between 80 relatively unknown chefs, labeled as “black spoon chefs,” versus 20 other highly regarded chefs, labeled “white spoon chefs.” The latter range from award-winning Michelin star chefs to Frank Beard Award winners to those who have appeared on Top Chef. The former group begins with a competition where they’re tasked with making their best dish. From there, the two judges weed out the group until only 20 black spoon chefs are left. From there, the two groups will begin to compete.

While it’s fun watching the judges, restauranteur Paik Jong-won, and three-star Michelin chef Anh Sung-jae go around and try everyone’s diverse dishes, it takes over two episodes to get to the main lineup. That said, there’s a definite, brutal joy in the decisiveness of elimination. Despite all the black spoons being professionals, the judges quickly dismiss their efforts if it isn’t up to snuff. The first chef who finishes presents sashimi, which Sung-jae passes over with little fanfare. Similarly, a chef who is very confident that his admitted plain steak will be enough to win over Jong-won is axed.

It, like most competition series, is enough to make us casual viewers at home suddenly confident enough in our own cooking to bark out suggestions and comments from our couches. But it also is so engaging that a man making sashimi out of vegetables seems alluring even to ardent meat eaters.

But again, it gets all the more watchable once the fat is trimmed and we’re thrust into the main competition. As each black spoon gets to pick a white spoon to go up against, they’re tasked with choosing a secret ingredient they’ll incorporate into a meal, ranging from mukeunji (aged kimchi) to eel. How these chefs work their mystery items into their dishes is mouth-watering. It’s fun getting to see the difference between the world-renowned chefs and smaller up-and-comers, especially as the diversity of the food matches the different styles and techniques each has a master over.

From traditional Korean and Chinese meals to utilizing decadent spun sugar to bring out the critical flavor, there’s a vast range of expertise and talent on display. One of the most heartwarming moments comes in the first standoff, when chef Edward Lee implores his competitor, who just lost, to reach out to him on social media, so impressed with what he managed. A real spirit in celebrating this art form comes through in the competition. Again, similar to Physical 100, we see this in the community aspect as the chefs who aren’t currently competing watch and cheer from the elevated sidelines.

The splitting between the two “classes” feels slightly more arbitrary until the white spoons win multiple rounds in a row. This is especially true because the judges base their vote purely on flavor, blindfolded while taking the one perfectly concocted bite. However, their commitment to the bit with the blindfolded taste test also lends itself to the silliest aspect of the show. No matter how dignified the two judges are and how formidable Paik Jong-won is as a variety screen presence, it’s hard for it not to feel comedic. Even the contestants have to stop themselves from laughing when they see them.

Overall, Culinary Class Wars is another successful reality series on Netflix. Aided by a talented group of competitors who all bring an eclectic edge to their style and creativity as chefs, it’s an easy binge that makes the more culinary curious inclined to try and step up their repertoire in the kitchen.

The first four episodes of Culinary Class Wars are out now on Netflix.